I sew with knits often, but it’s been a while since I have made a woven garment. Love Notions had their Rhapsody Blouse & Dress Pattern on a Feature Friday Sale for $5, so I thought, why not give it a try.

I chose to make the short sleeve, no tie blouse version. The Rhapsody Blouse is the third Love Notions pattern I have made and I know it won’t be the last.

About the fabric

The fabric choices that work best are lightweight, drapey woven such as rayon challis, crepe, chiffon, silk, voile, lawn, peachskin, gauze, and 100% rayon. For my fabric I chose “Boho Chic”, a textured crepe that I bought from fabric.com a few years ago. The print is no longer available, but you can view their selection of textured crepe here.

It was my first time sewing with textured crepe. The fabric washed up nicely and I didn’t notice any fading or bleeding. Overall, the fabric was easy to work with. Heavy pattern weights are essential for crepe fabric since it shifts fairly easily. 2″ washers are a nice option for pattern weights. They are heavy and I like to stack them up to make them even heavier for slippery fabric.

About the pattern

I can’t say enough positive things about the pattern. It features no-trim pages and a layers tab. The layers tab is a magical tool in the pdf file that allows you to deselect all sizes that do not apply to you. As a result, only the sizes that remain selected are displayed on your printed copy. If you have not tried a pattern with layers, let me just say it is a game changer. Not all pdf pattern companies provide this option so take advantage of it when you can.

I really enjoyed making the Rhapsosy Blouse. The pattern was not too difficult, especially considering the pattern uses several techniques I had never done before. French seams, pleats, gathering, yokes, and the burrito roll up method were all firsts for me. Love Notions includes clear and easy to read pattern instructions and illustrations. Links for video tutorials are included throughout the pattern instructions. I recommend reading all instructions carefully and pay close attention to seam allowance instructions. The pattern uses both 3/8″ and 1/2″ seam allowances. Love Notions rates this pattern at an intermediate skill level.

French Seams

French seams were easy despite the sound of them. I didn’t even know what a french seam was until I made this blouse, and to be honest, the sound of them intimidated me a little.

With the garment wrong sides together, the side seams are sewn at a 1/4″ seam allowance . It seems completely backwards to sew on the right sides of the fabric, but in the end it all works out perfectly.

After the side seams are sewn at 1/4″ seam allowance, they are trimmed to 1/8″ with scissors and then pressed to one side.

Turn the garment wrong side out and pretend the previous steps never happened. Press the seams flat and sew the side seams with 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams toward the back. The french seams gave the garment a professional looking finish.

Markings, Notches, Pleats, & Gathers

I thought the pattern provided the right amount of notches and markings. It is important to transfer all pattern notches and markings to the fabric as they are essential to proper pleat placement and sewing the side seams and sleeves.

I love the gathering on the front and pleat on the back of the Rhapsody Blouse. ♥

The Neckline

Normally, v-neck blouses sit too low for my comfort level. I was a little apprehensive trying the pattern because it is a v-neck. I am so glad I decided to move forward with making the blouse. The v-neck turned out perfect and I love it. It does not sit too low and I do not feel self conscious at all wearing the blouse.

The pattern offers three methods for finishing the neckline. The recommended option uses 1/2″ single fold bias tape. The alternative option uses 3/4″ single fold bias tape. Also there is a shortcut option. The shortcut option can be done by serging the raw edges, turn the edge to the wrong side by 1/4″, and topstitch in place. I confess that I really considered the shortcut option. Bravely, I stepped out of my comfort zone and opted to use 1/2″ double fold bias binding. I chose solid black for some added contrast to the busy pattern.

Pattern Adjustments

Grading between sizes was the only adjustment I made to the pattern. I graded from size X-Small in the bust and waist up to size Small in the hip.

The Hem

The only other change I made to the pattern was going with a 3/4″ bottom hem instead of the suggested 1/2″. I could have shortened the pattern length, but I really wanted to leave it a little longer. Two hem choices are given in the pattern. I used the serged hem option.

My Final Thoughts

The Rhapsody Blouse is a perfect addition to my summer wardrobe. The recommended fabric is light and cool for hot summer days. I thought the pattern was designed and constructed very well. The blouse is very versatile and can be casual or dress up wear. My favorite features are the pleat, gathered shoulders and sleeves, and v-neckline. Making a sleeveless version and a dress version are in my future plans. I consider myself barely an intermediate dressmaker and I managed this pattern with no issues at all. If you feel a little intimidated, my advice is to give this pattern a try. You might surprise yourself!

If you decide to make the Rhapsody Blouse or Dress, please make sure to post about it in the comments. I would love to hear your sewing story! Please feel free to ask any questions. I hope you enjoy the Rhapsody Blouse & Dress Pattern as much as I did. Happy Sewing! 🙂

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